A Highland Oasis of Tranquility
Álftavatn, known in English as Swan Lake, sits nestled in the remote highlands of southern Iceland as a peaceful sanctuary along the Laugavegur Trail. The lake takes its name from the whooper swans that visit this area, along with numerous species of ducks and other waterfowl that make their home here during the summer months. Surrounded by green hills and dramatic volcanic terrain, Álftavatn offers hikers a serene contrast to the harsh geothermal landscapes and exposed ridges they encounter elsewhere on the trail.
The lake's calm waters reflect the surrounding mountains and sky, creating scenes of remarkable beauty, particularly at sunrise and sunset when the light transforms the landscape. This peaceful setting has earned Álftavatn a reputation as an oasis in the highlands, a place where life flourishes amid an otherwise sparse and barren environment. For weary hikers, the sight of the lake after descending from Hrafntinnusker provides welcome relief and a promise of rest.
Where Volcanic Terrain Meets Green Valleys
The landscape around Álftavatn showcases the dramatic transitions that make the Laugavegur Trail so extraordinary. The area sits at a crossroads between the dark volcanic plains to the north and the increasingly verdant terrain leading south toward Þórsmörk. Colorful rhyolite mountains frame the lake, their mineral-rich slopes displaying shades of red, orange, and yellow that contrast beautifully with the green vegetation thriving near the water.
Shallow rivers flow through the area, easily forded on foot, separating the lake from the surrounding highlands. These waterways support a surprising amount of vegetation, creating ribbons of green that weave through the darker volcanic soil. The presence of water and shelter from the wind has allowed flora to establish itself here more successfully than in many other parts of the highlands, adding to the sense that Álftavatn is a protected haven in an otherwise challenging environment.
The views from the lake extend to the massive glaciers of Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull to the south, their ice-covered peaks standing as reminders of the powerful forces that shaped this landscape. On clear days, these distant giants dominate the southern horizon, their scale providing perspective on the vastness of Iceland's natural systems.
A Key Stop on the Laugavegur Trail
For most hikers, Álftavatn represents either the second or third night on the Laugavegur Trail, depending on their chosen itinerary. The route from Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn covers approximately 12 to 16 kilometers and takes about 5 hours, featuring a descent of 490 meters that provides relief after the challenging climb to Hrafntinnusker on the previous day.
The approach to Álftavatn takes hikers through the geothermal wonderland of Jökultungur, where hundreds of hot springs and mud pools paint the landscape in vivid colors. As the trail descends, the scenery gradually transforms from stark volcanic terrain to the greener, more welcoming environment around the lake. This transition offers one of the trail's most dramatic shifts in landscape character.
The Álftavatn mountain hut, operated by the Icelandic Touring Association, accommodates up to 72 people, making it one of the larger facilities along the trail. The hut provides dormitory-style sleeping quarters, a communal kitchen with cooking facilities, cold running water, and shower facilities for a small fee. A campsite adjacent to the hut offers an alternative for those preferring to sleep under the stars, with the lake's peaceful setting creating an ideal camping environment.
Birdwatching and Wildlife
The abundance of birdlife around Álftavatn makes it a favorite location for birdwatchers hiking the Laugavegur Trail. Whooper swans, the lake's namesake, can often be seen gliding across the water or nesting along the shores during the breeding season. Numerous species of ducks, including teal, wigeon, and scaup, feed in the shallow waters and rest on the lake's edges.
Other waterfowl and shorebirds take advantage of the lake's resources, making this one of the richest wildlife areas along the trail. The presence of so much avian life in such a remote location highlights the importance of this oasis in the highland ecosystem. For hikers taking a rest day or simply pausing at the lake, observing these birds provides a peaceful counterpoint to the physical demands of trekking.
Visiting Álftavatn
Access to Álftavatn is exclusively via the Laugavegur Trail, as the lake sits far from any roads in the uninhabited highlands. This remoteness is part of its appeal, ensuring that visitors experience the lake as it has existed for centuries, untouched by development and accessible only to those willing to make the journey on foot.
The hiking season runs from late June through early September, coinciding with the opening of the mountain huts along the trail. Weather conditions at Álftavatn are generally more moderate than at the exposed heights of Hrafntinnusker, though hikers should still be prepared for rain, wind, and cold temperatures. The relatively sheltered position of the lake provides some protection from the harsh weather that can sweep across the highlands.
The shallow rivers that must be crossed to reach the hut and campsite are typically easy to ford during normal conditions, though water levels can rise quickly after heavy rain or during periods of glacial melt. Hikers should exercise caution during crossings and be prepared to get their feet wet.
